Piazza
de Campo was erected when the Council of Nine controlled the town. During the Roman time the market was held here. Since the 1300s it has been
civic and social meting point. The nine sectors int which its paving is divided remind inhabitants of the nine founders.
Part of the
Fonte
Gaia (fountain) here is just a copy of Jacopo della Quercia’s creation,
which had to be removed because of weather damage. To see the originals head to the Complesso Museale di Santa
Maria della Scala.
In the summertime the square can be a difficult
place to walk around and practically impossible on the days when the famous Palio is held.
The
Palazzo
Comunale, Palazzo Pubblico or town hall stands proud over the square. The
Council of Nine had it constructed in 1297, as a symbolic and centre of republican power with the aim of reducing the control of feudal knights.
The ground floor is constructed in stone while brick was used for the
following storeys. The concave façade of the palazzo follows the shape
of the convex piazza thus creating a perfect balance between both.
You
can admire the courtyard of the palazzo free of charge, but there is an
admission ticket for the
Museo Civico sitting by the entrance of the
palazzo (tel. 0577 29 22 63). The museum showcases frescoes which,
unlike the widespread style of pieces of art from the era, are themed around
secular subjects. They were created by the
Sienese school. Decorations
here as in many other buildings of Sienese style are generally profuse.
There is a room with pictures of artists, mainly of Sienese origin, ranging from the 16th to the 18th century.
In the
Sala del Risorgimento there is a display of frescoes depicting the most important moments of the
Unification of Italy.
The
Sala di Balia is devoted to the struggle between the Sienese pope Alexander III and
Frederick Barbarossa.
The
following is the
Anticamera del Concistoro keeping Ambrogio
Lorenzetti’s
Saints Catherine of Alexandria, John and Augustine.
From
the Anticamera del Concistoro you can enter the
Vestibolo that
showcases, among other pieces, the wolf in bronze representing Siena.
By the Vestibolo is the
Anticappella. Frescoes depicting Greco-Roman
mythological and historical events or characters hang on its walls. The
chapel´s main attraction is Il Sodoma’s
Holy Family and Saint Leonard
and the finely carved choir stalls
From the chapel enter the
Sala
del Mappamondo housing the most admired pieces of the palazzo: Simone
Martini’s
Virgin Mary in Majesty. In this hall there are also other
frescoes representing important events in Siena’s history with victorious outcomes.
Look up in the
Sala del Concistoro to admire Domenico Beccafumi’s Mannerist ceiling frecoes.
The
following room is the
Sala dei Nove which keeps the
Allegories of Good
and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, considered by Francesco da
Mosta to be one of the most captivating works in the country. The three
panels of the fresco are said to have been painted for those in
power to encourage them to keep the values of a republic in mind: Justice, Wisdom, Virtue
and Peace. The other frescoes
Effects of Good Government and
Effects of
Bad Government are depictions of Siena filled with happiness and taken
over by crime and death respectively.
For a good view from the
palazzo go up to the loggia from where you can see for miles, beyond the city into the countryside.
Torre
del Mangia, located by the Palazzo Comunale, the bell tower affording
great views of Siena only allows 30 people up at a time. It is certainly worth the high climb. The 102m tower was designed in the Sienese style in 1344 and was a real triumph of engineering at the time.
Other great monuments to visit around the
Piazza del Duomo, besides the cathedral are:
The
Libreria Piccolomini which houses the collection
of books that
Enea Silvio Piccolomini (Pious II) left and that his nephew
Pius III decided to keep in this library constructed especially to do so.
The
hall was frescoed by
Pinturicchio whose work show different events during those times. The hall is crowned by the
Three Graces, a reproduction of a 3rd century Greek piece.
The
Museo dell’Opera Metropolitana also known as the Museo dell’Opera Duomo
sitting by the cathedral displays the original façade statues by
Giovanni Pisano. As they were made to be seen from below as the
faithful entered the cathedral they stretch forward and look rather unnatural.
The
Majesty by Duccio di Buoninsegna was created in the 1300s. It
was made to be placed on the high altar. Some parts of the panels
depict Jesus preaching, praying or being kissed by Judas and being
abandoned. Two nearby rooms house
Jacopo della Quercia’s statues of the
Fonte Gaia and another displays illustrations of the marble floor built in the 19th century.
Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Simone Martini and
Taddeo di Bartolo’s works, tapestries and manuscripts are showcased on the upper levels.
Underneath the cathedral to the north is a
crypt which
remained filled with rubble for 7 centuries. Fortunately it was opened at the beginning of
the 21st century, it is decorated with 13th century mural painting
which covers 180 sq-m of biblical scenes.
The
Baptistry
of Saint John is located on Piazza San Giovanni. Its still not
completed façade is an example of true Gothic magnificence and its interior full of frescoes. The apse has been decorated with frescoes
representing the main events of Jesus´ life. The one portraying Jesus holding
his cross has a particularly interesting background which shows buildings such as Brunelleschi’s
Florentine dome and the campanile created by Giotto. In the rivalry
between the Sienese and Florentines the Sienese were apparently trying to pin the blame on the Florentines for Jesus´suffering.
It could be said that the font is the
most important element in this building. It was created by Jacopo della Quercia
who has represented the main events in Saint John the Baptist’s life. They were
made in bronze relief panels. It is impossible not to admire the
Baptism of Christ and
Saint John in Prison by Lorenzo Ghiberti and
Herod’s Feast by
Donatello.